Sterling Wine Auctions Australia

At Sterling we have many opportunities to enjoy wines that range from “plonk” to the worlds finest and rarest.

This page isn’t about scores; it’s about recording and sharing useful information 

2010-01- 05     Dinner with friends Claremont Perth.

A roller cost of extreme gourmet training and dedication distilled to a remarkable medley of the simple and perfect.  Our intrepid host and hostess have quested and invested to visit and experience the greatest exponents of the table arts. The five contents their, playground; I am talking about experience, focus and dedication beyond the Australian context.  As with all true masters of high arts, these doyens of wine, food and style, make quiet progress and are only know for their greatness to those invited to share.
Lucky us, we shared an event of food and wine ecstasy. At home in a modern “live in” museum of contemporary art and interiors, we were dazzled by a feast of unobtrusive yet razor sharp indulgence.  I love my job!  

Grosset Polish Hill Riesling 2004

We are SO lucky! Top retail for this gem rarely exceeds $50, even as a back vintage; How long will it be before the world discovered Oz premium Riesling and the prices skyrocket?  My personal taste is often shown to be the palate of the loony fringe. It is humbling and remarkable when everyone gathered at dinner swoons and buzzes over a wine. The presence of greatness. If you don’t believe me go to the web site and read the encyclopaedia of entries from the worlds heaviest hitting Grosset lovers  http://www.grosset.com.au/wines_polishhillriesling04.htm

1998 Duval-Leroy Brut Blanc de Chardonnay Champagne

Duval Leroy is one of the few 100% family owned houses. It is run by a wonderful visionary woman who has brought boutique values to large production. Annual output of over 5 million bottles, makes Duval-leroy a serious player enjoying international distribution.
The wine was a joy, gentle soft and fragrant with powerful bottle aged characters. Yeasty biscuit with delicate citrus and orange peel, stunning length and the distinction of a creamy finish.
Rich and gracious enjoyed by all: look at the web site http://www.duval-leroy.com
LESSON; Hard times in Champagne, GFC et al, have seen wonderful wines exported to little markets like Oz and sold for peanuts. Champagnes that would have previously been squandered by the fast young Wall Street and London power sets.
Look at the current Champagne bargains at retail as a BONUS that will soon be withdrawn. The latest news is that Champs sales to the UK have jumped over the past quarter.

Giadonda Nantu 'LES DEUX' 2000

This is a tricky one, like great French Condrieu (Rhone premium Roussanne) this master of disguises will only revealed its true identity to those who have patience and faith. This wine was poured and left on the dinner table for almost 30 minutes before drinking.  The exotic Roussanne kick to the Beachworth chardonnay was rich and rewarding.  Did we drink it too early or too late? The wine was regal and almost oily in consistency, the strong chardonnay characters almost masked by the invader. Was the blend too strong or too old? 
DANGER this wine is a risk: Indulge knowing it could lead to an obsession. This is a crucible of all that is good and beautiful distilled to dangerous levels of concentration.  I will take the risk and seek out this wine again, and again.

Noon Cab Res 200

Drew Noon is a man of letters and fame who, sage like, stands aside from a world that fetes and rewards him. This reclusive MW is making wines that demand and indeed command attention. The high and mighty including Mr Robert Parker Jnr frequently bestow great praise and scores on the wines of Noon. We were likely guilty of killing a baby of massive potential. This 2006 Reserve Cabernet was intense and tight, a compressed packet of extreme flavour and joy? I thinks it would come closer to “self realisation” in another ten years. The minty leafy Langhorne character rolled and twisted with the wonder oak and majestic Cabernet character. Sweet concealed cherry and plum fruits preserved in layers of liquorice and warm liquor.  This is a Vera Lynn wine We’ll meet again, don’t know where don’t know when but I know we’ll meet again some sunny day.

Kay Block 6 1999

The other side of the vale McLaren from the kingdom of Noon is the land of Kay. Old and enchanted, the land of Kay has a large and beating heart that can be found in Block 6. Around the heart grow fabulous vines of fabled age. Shiraz vines that bear the fruit of ages that makes itself into the Block 6 tribute wine of Kay. The wine of Kay Brothers Amery!
Heck I was spellbound and Coleridge like (without the opium haze or talent) swept away to my own Xanadu and pleasure dome.  This was a stunning wine, that, like the Noon Reserve, has the acolytes sliding on their bellies in adoration and praise. A wine that no meal can grace, that should be served alone to muted blind folded disciples vowed to sip and savour in sustained raptures.
YES I liked this wine and just didn’t know where to turn and what to do. So many wonder wines and so little time!

1997 Chateau Rayas Pignan Chateauneuf du Pape

Served next to the Block 6 this wine was an interesting counterpoint and the two glasses brought together a world class sprinter and a world class marathon runner. Maybe the Miss world contestants from. Venezuela and China. Both wines at the top of their game, both beautiful and vision splendid and in no way similar. Enter the collector! Understand the joy of ownership and sharing to the worthy.
Parkers 1999 notes on the Pignan Reserve reveals some surprises, (see below).
My impression was that the bottle we enjoyed had been nurtured to its peak by loving and correct cellaring. The wine was light, elegant, balanced and very complex. Most notable, and the Miss world contestants thoughts came from this, the Rayas Reserve was not blown away by the very “expressive” Aussies wine.  We are hearing so many raves about 2007 Chateaunurfs. If you are not a fan now, there is a good chance you will be soon

R.L Bulller & Son Rutherglen Tokay – “a special solera of fine wine” so says the label

Special indeed and like so many special things misunderstood and typecast. Rich and intense with the consistency of hot treacle, This is an essence not a wine for “glass consumption”  A wise man once told me these wines were best consumed, not from a glass but from the navel of a special loved one. Special rare and world beating. Amazing that old Rutherglen curio “Sticky” Muscats and Tokays are regularly seen in Sterling Auction catalogues.  This is definitely a category on the climb. Smart Rutherglen marketing and the plans and successes of the new Czars of Para will see Oz fortified moving up and up
Dr Barber prescribes 25ml of premium Rutherglen Tokay before bed. To be held in mouth for 60 seconds before swallowing.  

Cloudy Bay 2004 Late Harvest Riesling

As you would expect our every attentive guardian, busy controlling the Kaleidoscope of extreme wine and food experience, would not let us leave the table and drive home on a dangerous “Tokay High” The Cloudy Bay Late Harvest Riesling was a gentle and profound final encore. Light, crisp, clean, slightly candied and super fresh. I am exploring suitable breakfast wines. This one is surely on the list.

2009-11-28      Torbreck Run Rig Shiraz Barossa Valley 2005

Charmed life; Visited a mates place for a Pizza and a catch up on Saturday arvo. The ever generous Inspector decided I need education and pulled out this Crown Prince of wines as a wash down. Robert Parker's Oz-man Jay Miller summed it up this way along with 98+ points

Opaque purple/black in color, it has a kinky, exotic bouquet of fresh road tar, smoke, lavender, black pepper, game, blueberry, and black raspberry. Full-bodied and opulent on the palate, the wine is dense, packed, and unevolved. It will continue to open up over the next 10-12 years and drink well through 2040 in the style of a Chapoutier Hermitage. If it develops as I think it will, it will be a candidate for perfection down the road. Wine Advocate 181 Feb 2009

Candidate for perfection indeed; The bottom line is always end up stripping down to value. We all know this is a VERY expensive bottle. The good news; So it should be!!! A true 'Crown Prince' equipped by birth and education with easy beauty charm, wit and grace. I'm heady back to the Inspectors place next weekend with meat pies. Wonder what he will match them with?

2009-11-17      Pewsey Vale Museum release Contour Riesling Eden Valley 2001

Clean fresh sharp and racy wonderful varietal characters and little evidence of bottle development in this Eight year old. A wine that is NOWHERE near best drinking (another 5 years?)
What do you do with the huge range of cheap wonderful Aus premium Rieslings? SO GOOD and so often tossed down ice cold as a larger substitute. I keep begging; spare these wines a quick end grant then a few hours in the glass and let them warm up. A stand out on night of Stars.

2009-11-17      Vasse Felix Heytesbury Chardonnay Margaret River 2006

I am a big fan of 2006 MR chardonnay and this is the wine that blitzed the show circuit. Wonderful sherbet citrus introduction to a wine of huge elegance and power everything in place and some wonderful pure chardonnay characters free from the burden of weighty oak and butter / melon Malo Stunning acid helped this prima Ballerina grace and charm the palate.

2009-11-17      Jacobs Creek Johann Shiraz cabernet Barossa Valley 2001

Keep coming back to this wine. The apparent unending list of gongs certainly grabs attention. (Most recently a huge world beating Decanter Magazine trophy) What more could you want; definitive Aus Cab Shiraz made to a standard, dripping with awards and still selling at auction for under $50! Bloody marvelous!

2009-11-17      Grace Vineyard Chairmans Reserve Merlot Cabernet Shanxi China 2005

A reputation as China's best wine; a huge rap from Janscis Robinson and some clever marketing has made this wine the "Chinese Penfolds Grange". Hard to buy outside China (bought a bottle in Beijing during the Olympics) a bottle sells for over $A90. The most expensive Chinese wine.
So much was riding on this bottle, sadly the jury is still out, if it wasn¿t corked, it was faulted. On opening it was very disappointing and in hope of a miracle I went back to the bottle for a taste over the next three days. Sad.

2009-11-06      Chanyu Cabernet Sauvignon Yantai China 1995

Huge diversified Chinese corporate founded in 1892. This bottle was a gift from a Lady mandarin big hitter with impeccable credentials. Keep in mind 1995 was only 5 years after free enterprise and private ownership were "legal" in China. This Museum wine was a special 110 anniversary release present from 2002. Chinese wine has a bad reputation largely attributed to some simple issues. Storage and freight often involves prolonged heat exposure. From experiments in 1987 the Chinese wine industry is on a super steep learning curve, in real terms it is under 20 years old and growing faster than the runaway economy. Styles are very confused. The dream of making Bordeaux collides with well-heeled punters who are often happy to mix 7UP with Chateau Lafite. Many local Chinese see grape wine as a medicine and demand strong mushroomy funky characters that would be the kiss of death in our market.

On opening the confronting burnt rubber industrial nose was quite offensive and a sign of wine making issues. Exactly the same as a classy bottle of 1993 Abruzzi de Alba I enjoyed a few years ago, the nastiness was gone within 45 minutes.

Sadly, most would have binned it straight after opening. That would have been a terrible waste, within an hour this ugliest of ducklings was drinking like a very reasonable Cru Bourgeois Bordeaux of the same vintage. Light and a little thin with subtle bottle aged characters, a good lesson in the art of patience.

2009-11-01      Moss Wood Morington Peninsula Pinot Noir 2008

Lucky to be invited to the table of a Lady Doctor celebrating moving into the sleekest of Dalkeith pleasure domes, I brought some "work" along to force the guests to sing for their supper.

Often the best stories are the shortest. BUY Moss Wood Mornington Pinot Noir. The 2008 is not the best pinot you will buy for the price, BUT my bet is that in 10 years it will be. Starting at the beginning, you can enjoy each step along the road to fame. Keith and Clair Mugford are a bankable partnership who are ready to drive the Moss Wood Pinot to rival the Cabernet.

2009-11-01      De Toren Z Merlot Cab Franc Stellenbosch 2005

Same night of glittering elegance at the Lady Doctors table; This was a huge surprise. The Moss Wood Pinot was a BIG hit and the bottle was drained by the assembled medicos with surgical precision and wry smiles.

Privately imported to Aus by a globe trotter with a taste for a bargain, the price point is roughly $A30 ish with taxes etc. Don¿t know if there is a local distributer. (Would like to know) Rich, ripe regal and very dangerous; Slippery character that just disappeared. Beautiful balance and structure, beautiful oak and tannins;

Not that many Aussie punters know what to expect from the "other SA" this was for me, again, a huge surprise. There is a wave coming get ready to be swept away by SA wines of superior quality and value. Many of the top jobs for South African Wine producers are filled by Aussie talent no longer valued / needed here.

2009-10-27      Lindemans Hunter River Burgundy Bin 8203 1991

This is me spoiling myself. It was my birthday and I wanted to drink this one. Was supposed to share with another old Hunter shiraz fan. Sorry Tony, you had your chances; next time

Let's begin with the 11.5% alcohol, this is almost 50% lower than many of the red monsters lurking below corks. Might be kidding myself and I might be confusing the effect of massive extraction with monster alcohol (funny they always seem to go hand in hand) But I reckon that the lower alcohol in this wine suited me and increased my enjoyment! (Anyone want to throw in their thoughts on this subject ?)

Back to the wine. I LOVED IT Why? Because it was different? No; it was more than that. There wasn't the gob bomb of flavor charging the gums. Nor was there a tasting invasion charging down my throat. In fact; concentrating on length, this wine didn't linger that long. Not in the overt sense. Maybe more of a spooky phantom presence. It was there lingering in my throat and palate but it wasn't there!

Lovely, gentle Shiraz characters mixed with bottle age, classy hunter leather and touch of funky mushrooms. You don't have to blow big bucks to top the wine love scale. This gem cost me under $40 at auction and got the highest praise from my little Bella Darling, who was put off by the idea of crushed ants; she was much more relaxed with sweaty saddles!

2009-10-18      Warrenmang Grand Pyrenees Cabernet 2005

The search for the "critter" that is gentle on the mind is a current preoccupation.

Rhone stylization is just so popular right now. Funny that many Rhone wines are more than a little painted by the "critter" factor. (sorry for getting lost in my naval gazing; Some smart yank decided a CRITTER best tagged the style of big in your face; Oak fruit bomb wine that Oz was mastering)

A little critter does go a long way and a touch of monster is so often a really good thing. This wine is well worth a good long look. The style that will appeal to the whole family and might even take over as your favourite comfort wine. Well made ripe ample and generous. No shrinking leafing cabernet violet!

Just pulled these notes off the Warrenmang web site (worth a look http://www.warrenmang.com.au/)

2005 Warrenmang Estate Grand Pyrenees

Blended cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc and shiraz ensures there is a wonderful abundance of flavour and complexity. Each variety was fermented, pressed and matured separately in French and American oak for two years. The palate is full and persistent with subtle oak and fine, balanced lasting tannins.

Wonderful abundance... yep I'd pay that. If you like rating the gongs Mr Halliday gave the wine 94 and Winstate four and half stars.

2009-09-21      Jip Jip Rocks Commercial samples

Funny name, great wines. At our local Lebanese café ( just before it was used for target practice) we sat down with some foody friends to "work" on the Jip Jip range. They track tested brilliantly. The wag at the table went straight to the building sheeting routine; you know drinking "jip-rock" etc Funny name but the Jip Jip Rocks are is the big feature of the Padthaway landscape and you could do worse than name your business after the local sacred site!

Top marks to the Bryson family who recommend sharing their wines with food friends and conversation: Perfect!

Jip Jip Rocks Chardonnay Unoaked 2009 Padthaway

Good balance and "old fashioned" heavy tropical fruits and buttery melons (thought I spotted a bit of oak there too) Fresh and zingy acid lifting to a very popular place. Funny thing is that every premium chard producer is screaming off to make Chablis and Mersault; Without checking what mum and dad like. This is a good wine and a popular style, well made and well priced at a rec. retail of under $18.00

Jip Jip Rocks Shiraz Cabernet 2008 Padthaway

Really liked this one, good forward sweetish fruit without doing a jam bomb. Complex and well blended. Enjoyed the varietal signatures and hints of cool climate or Padathaway mintiness. Again very dangerous on the refill. Just too easy to drink. Looked at it again next night and was impressed with the power and structure, with all the bits hanging together very well. For the sub $18 price point a bit of a bargain.

Jip Jip Rocks Shiraz 2008 Padthaway

Would like another bottle of this, maybe a look at the 2007 against the 2008. Not because there was anything wrong with the bottle we received (other than being too small). Really enjoyed this wine. Cleverly crafted to deliver big fruit and flavor without selling out to extremes. Again lovely minty cool notes and some lovely shiraz characters floating through. Had the hallmarks of old vines and careful work and maybe a big budget effort in the winery. Again at under $18 this one is most definitely a bargain.

2009-09-11      Torbreck Decendant 2006 Barossa Valley

Every now and then, taking care of babies isnøt a bad thing. This current release gem from the Torbeck Miesterhaus and a strong vintage is a study in wine industry success. A cold day kept this infant under the covers for far too long. Wonderful fresh fruit and clean expressive oak blessed us when the wee bern came out to play. Leave until a callow youth or even until the full bloom of maturity. No disappointment ahead

2009-09-11      Tyrrell Vat 47 Chardonnay 2002 Hunter Valley

A wonder wine that never ceases to amaze or inspire streaming superlatives. How do they do it? Murray must be well pleased, no doubt enjoying Bruce and teams progress at the Tyrrell winery from a high white fluffy vantage point. For a chard that is over seven years old you would expect some fade or fat characters. Not at all, be were graced with wonderful racy acid, strong elegant fruit and stunning finish, only to be capped by mouth lingering length of subtle exotica.

If you donøt believe me just count the golden gongs clustered round the neck. Great experience. Sadly too rushed.

2009-09-05      Annual Peel Estate Shiraz Tasting 2003 Vintage

This great event is the benchmark tasting for every new Shiraz vintage. Always timed to sit with the release of Penfolds Grange, the 2003 vintage was represented by 20 of the worldøs best!

2003 was not remembered as a world beating vintage, but, as with all vintages, there were some standouts and some big surprises.

For the past twelve years I have enjoyed Will Nairn and the Peel Estate teamøs tireless effort in putting on these huge tastings.

It all kicked off seventeen years ago with John Glaetzer as special guest in 1992 looking at the 1986 Vintage

My universal observation from this yearøs event:

Look at the leveling! Ten years ago the likes of Penfolds Grange and Henschke Hill of Grace stood out like tall poppies!

Following great Aussie tradition these tall poppies were cut down to size, not by the øattack of the pole axeø but by meeting and then even bettering the standard.

The field of also ranøs, so used to being lapped by the big guns, did the training and got even!

Most of the 100 or so tasters at Peel last weekend agreed that the 2003 Grange was lost in the pack with most punters scoring it poorly against the four other wines in the bracket of five it was presented in.

Big Winners: Sadly the bang for buck factor cannot be ignored. Grange, Run Rig, Ampuis, Wolf Platinum SHOULD stand out and sing.

At an average of over $300 a bottle it is fair to demand a big noise.

For the 2003 vintage, I didnøt see one of the big hitters winning or even competing on the Buck v Bang front. Sometimes they do!

BIG WINNER Peel Estate!

Happy and poetic co-incidence.

Will was honoured as the recipient of the Jack Mann medal for his consistant and outstsnding contribution to the WA wine industry.

A happy string of events! His wine out pointed grange at his Signature tasting all in his 70øs year. Well Done Will!

Sitting in the last flight in the league of remarkable wines, (the list below is in order of tasting) the Peel wine was more than holding its own.

The most impressive on the points for buck front were Peel and Cape Mentelle. Clicking in at well under $50 a bottle, the contrast is stark, look at the points noted on the list below.

The next tier of value was likely the Seppelt St Peters and the Kilikanoon Oracle.

have had a love affair with the St Peters for many years. Along this the DøAremberg Dead Arm itøs a wine that always seems to be on top of the game!

Try A bottle of Will's Shiraz, particularly the 2003 and let me know what you think!

(It is no secret that Will Nairn is my mate and, in need, I will happily defend my objectivity)

The wines below are listed in order of tasting. There are plenty of tasting notes around for these wines so I have just listed my scores behind the scores of the experts that talked through each bracket
NB my scores on the blind tasting are listed second The expert scores are first!

Bests Bin 0 Great Western	17	18
Plantagenet Mount Barker	17	17++
Capercaillie Ghillie Hunter Vallley	17	17+
Isole E Olena Syrah Chianti	17	16
Majella Coonawarra	17	17
McWilliams OøShea Hunter Valley	16	17.5
Katnook Prodigy Coonawarra	17.5	17.5
Seppelt St Peters Grampians	18	17.5
Cape Mentelle Margaret River	18.5	18
Orlando Lawsons Padthaway	17.5	17.5
Juniper Estate Margaret River	16.5	17.5
Kilikanoon Oracle Clare Valley	18.5	18++
Guigal Chateau d'Ampuis Cote Rotie	17.5	18++
Penfolds Grange South Australia	17.5	18
Yalumba Octavius Barossa Valley	18.5	18
Peel Estate Perth Metro	18	18.5
Torbreck Run Rig Barossa Valley	18	18.5++
Wolf Blass Platinum Barossa	18.5	18.5++
Guigal Hermitage Hermitage	16	18.5++
Geoff Merrill Henley McLaren Vale	17	19

2009-09-04      The September Sterling pre-auction tasting

A lively affair with some seriously good wines making the trip to the Sterling Subiaco office well worthwhile.

The Pre-auction tasting is a chance to look at the "unknowns" in a catalogue, as well as tasting some of the big noise wines that may be past their best or surviving on reputation alone.

As always there were standouts. The Woodlands Margaret and the Mount Langi Cabernet Merlot were stunning.

Woodlands Margaret Cabernet Merlot 2001 Margaret River

Not sure why we opened this bottle. The lofty reputation of the winery, the vintage and the Woodlands Margaret project should be enough. Not to mention that this is an official Winery Museum Release! Letøs put it down to research and a tribute to great Cabernet from Cabernet heaven, Margaret River.

This is a great wine, buy some in September and enjoy a bargain Moss Wood rival. Best wine on the day? What would you say to every punter at the tasting "needing" to taste it at least three times, jut to be sure!

Mount Langi Cabernet Merlot 1998 Grampians

This is what wine auctions are all about. The sweet little numbers that represent sunning value! Tick the boxes. Super star producer, now lauded as one of the countryøs top Shiraz producers; Magic 1998 vintage; Guaranteed refrigerated storage in unopened cases since release from the winery and a darling to drink.

This wine has it all: Elegance, soft perfumed spicy nose, balance, silky mouth feel, generous fruit and lovely length. Not a grand cru contender but a beautiful and engaging companion. Maybe; the sort of companion that eclipses the Wine Aristocracy by force of charm and simple pleasure.

Great expectations: The Judgment on The Torbreck NeckOil and the Secret Places

Controversial? These wines have a reputation that would made the Marquis De Sade blush.

You all know these wines as the rip offs that skinned too many poor bunnies who believed all the hype and lies being fed by wine investment companies like Heritage.

I was tempted not to review these wines, not wanting to talk them down and add another cruel cut to the long suffering vendor who has lost money hand over fist.

There is good news, maybe even a silver lining.

Torbreck Neck Oil Shiraz Grenache 2002 Barossa Valley

Fresh opened this number looked rough and disjointed. Some good fruit and clean finish but a little twisted.

Maybe a victim of cold cellaring, this wine looked Oh so much better the next day. Clean, fresh, good fruit and reasonable balance. This may not be the wine the Torbreck team want to be remembered for (NB technically it is made by Torbreck not under the Torbreck label) BUT it is a smart little drink that will please many who want a good BBQ companion or every night crowd pleaser.

Secret Places Shiraz 2001 Barossa Valley (Kevin Mitchell / Kilikanoon)

This wine sports a label featuring a disturbing John Olsen portrait of a wine drinker who looks like he has just met with Hannibal (the Cannibal) Lecter. The back label tells you that the wine was created by Kevin Mitchell of Kilikanoon from grapes that have come from "Secret Places in the Barossa Valley"

Donøt let the name and the Secret Place implication put you off. This is a decent wine with some good primary fruit and structure. Funny enough this bottle looked a lot better the second day too. More freezing cellar syndrome? This isnøt for everyone, but it is cheap and suits the øeveryday wineø profile. In fact, I am sitting here enjoying good mouth feel and a persistent flavor that sits in the gums for a long time: Maybe that is the Kilikanoon quality signature.

Mr Mitchell sure knows how to make premium Shiraz!

Munari Shiraz 2001 Heathcote

Havenøt heard much about this producer. Listen up; look for them and beat the rush! This wine has a quality feel and intensity that almost takes away your breath. It you love Jasper Hill and premium Victorian Cool Clime Shiraz this is one for you. Straight out of the bottle, strong confronting cool shiraz and Heathcote regional characters embrace you with gusto! This is a wine that deserves the time and attention needed to see it unfold and perform.

Munari Schoolhouse Block Shiraz Cabernet 2001 Heathcote, Bendigo, Broadford

Smart little wine cut from the same fine fabric as big brother the straight Heathcote Shiraz. Delightful amalgam of cool clean fruit and sweet juicy elements that create another wonderful reason why the world should celebrate Aussie Shiraz Cab blends. Great food wine that can sit alone, with poise and confidence. If you are sick of big fat lazy Barossa Shiraz try this racy lady, she might surprise you but surely not disappoint.

Andrew Peace Australia Felix Sagrantino 2005 Swan Hill VIC

What the??? Sagrantino? Wolf Blass is telling us that we are confusing the world with too many new Aussie varieties and styles. Wolf might be right but this surprise packet is too good to trivialize. Pulling the cork on this wine is a rare and special experience. Concentrated exotica thrusts out of the bottle and envelopes you in a way that libertines like Emmanuelle would enjoy. This is Andrew Peaces Flagship wine definitely made to a standard not a budget. My guess is that it will benefit from a few more years in the cellar. Buy this premium wine for the experience and to trick that smarty know all mate.

Oakridge Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 Yarra Valley

Smart easy drink Cabernet with a good varietal expression; All done without compromising on warm sweet ripe fruit finish. Yarra Valley is home to some of Australia Cabernet royalty and this wine is touched by the same aristocratic grace. Good structure and soft elegant finish make it a stunning value drink. Stelvin screw seal is a bonus and some more time in the cellar could be very rewarding.

Oakridge Chardonnay 2008 Yarra Valley

This is a BIG surprise. VERY Smart indeed. When in doubt read the instructions or the back label. This wine has been made with all the big buck features, high low yielding vineyards handpicked barrel ferment with wild yeast. The product is very Burgundy. No malo or tropical washout here. The wood sits in place and lovely soft minerally Chardonnay essence wafts and caresses your tongue. This is a wine that would be murdered by pouring it icy cold. It would taste thin and cheap. I love this wine; it amazing and well worth the RRP of $30 plus a bottle.

Ainsworth & Snelson Chardonnay 2004 Yarra Valley

Another quality hand crafted Chardonnay. Bigger riper and extended by some bottle age development. Good structure and fine fruit definition. A fine, elegant wine that will drink well for quite a few more years. Great going for lovers of well cellared chards.

2009-07-21      Peel Estate Shiraz 1998 Perth Metro

Will Nairn is a gritty gentleman farmer who has dedicated himself to the pursuit of excellent Shiraz. We celebrated little Hanna's 11th birthday with a bottle of Wills finest, the 1998 Peel Shiraz. This important occasion, all about candles, cakes and lolly bags didn't do the wine justice (I tried to make the tweenies drink up both they stuck with the Coke) This is an unfinished story, the wine was too cold there were too many bursting balloons and off key renditions of happy birthday. This wine is a milestone for me; lots of quality old vine characters and wonderful balance.

PS Will Nairn cracks the three score and ten near Christmas. Go down to Peel and give him some advice, he loves advice; and maybe a big boys Lolly bag

2009-07-20      Tahbilk Voignier 2005 Nagambie Vic

I am a self confessed lover of old Tahbik whites. Add ten years of bottle age to the sublime Marsanne and you convert a cheapie into a superstar. The Voignier is a rare bird, made in small quantities. Screw cap to protect the gilded treasure for decades to come. Apricot citrus and musky notes make this wine a joy. The big buzz for me was the silky, slippy mouth feel and the subtle, exotic tropical notes woven into a force of gentle power. Originating in Condrieu in the Northern Rhone Valley, Tahbilk's first planting's of Viognier occurred in 1990 with the first vintage released in 1996.

NB My Dear old Dad is a 1927 babe and I like to spoil him /me with a bottle of the limited release 1927 Tahbilk Marsanne. Buy it, try it, love it!

2009-07-12      Phi Lucatia Park (de Bortoli Shelmerdine) Chardonnay 2006 Yarra Valley

Good story here. Down in Fremantle enjoying a bowl of Ginos pasta with two hard bitten philistines with too much money and too many toys. I felt like being fed to the lions, this is a tough audience, so I took an educational bottle along. This is a very smart wine. Jancis got 'licking chalk' Not sure how that works, but I got a very tight smart chardonnay that is the Twiggy of Dolly Parton 'up front' Chards. Sharp and hard, tight and twisty, this babe took 30 minutes to let go and show us some flesh! Well worth the wait. Even hard-man Ross admitted that the wait was worthwhile. I think he felt sorry for me and said he liked the wine; agreeing that it had indeed opened up and changed dramatically since the cap was screwed. If you like bottle Bling this one has cool medal Greeky stuff on it.

PHI Chardonnay 2006 This tastes almost disconcertingly like the Sauvignon, so strong is the character of the vineyard. Very tight and fine and on the finish there's sensation akin to licking chalk (although the vineyard soils are apparently light red volcanic basalt in fact). Needs a bit of time to unwind. From 20+ year-old vines. 17.5/20, drink 2010 to 2015, Jancis Robinson, Purple Pages..

2009-07-10      Leeuwin Art Series Chardonnay1994 Margaret Rive

Sometimes you just want to yell out to everyone in the room that they are in the presence of greatness and they should show more decorum and respect. Suspecting an encounter with greatness, I used a change meet with venerable wine scribe Ray Jordan as the time to loose the cork on this grand lady. WOW There were some wrinkles and rough edges up front but they soon glided away. Old Chardonnay is a risky business; random oxidization and cork issues knock so many good old bottle for six. This one was the reward. Perfect and just cruising. My dear, sweet better half enjoyed the dregs with her cornflakes the next morning and it was stunning. Soft smooth, wonderful varietal definition, beautiful oak presence and expression. Be warned. Don't look for this experience unless you know the price of disappointment. One in ten bottles, no matter how well cellared could deliver this joy. There again not all race horses win the Melbourne cup!

2009-07-02      Cullen Cabernet Merlot 1998 to 2007

Where do you start describing Vanya? Water nymph? Earth mother? Fashionista? Globe trotter? Lovers of the classics might see her as Athene; powerful goddess dispensing fury and hope to mankind. Well fury and hope was flowing at Lamonts in Cottesloe with Vanya presiding over a vertical tasting of the magical Cullen Cab merlot 1998 to 2007. Controlled by the Guru of the glass, John Jens, 20 fine folk idolized the wines and Vanyas stewardship. Thanks to Ian 'interior master' for my place at the table. There are stacks of notes on Cullen wines, so I won't do the list. My two bobs worth is the value of swimming against the stream and buying the 'so called' dud vintages. 1997, 2000 and 2006 were stunning. The 2005 has had lots of clever scribes pushing the hyperbole envelope to the limit. To me a black hole of a wine. SO MUCH going on in the glass you would need to wheel in Steven Hawkins to make sense of it. Defying physics as we know it? Buy and cellar this one but get a lion tamer to open the bottles; if you dare within the next decade. I know you all groaned knowingly when 2006 was listed with dud vintages. The me 2006 Cullen is a sublime thing of joy with sweet leafy cool cabernet cheekily poking its head out of the mix.

Back to Vanya; This special gal is doing a milestone this year. Slip on the hair shirt and the hemp caftan, plump the dreadies and ride your cow down to the Cullen farm and give her a slice of unleavened spelt cake and big birthday kiss!

2009-06-26      Wynns Coonawarra Shiraz 1998

Simple pleasures are a true joy and make up so much of the spice of life. This wine has always been one of my must buy cellar dozens. (along with Tabilk Marsanne and Wolf Blass Gold Riesling) Always discounted; Always great value; Always cellars perfectly: This wine made me happy and smile widely. Poor bastards drinking a $50 bottle that was no better than this cutie that was just $10! OK 1998 was a strong vintage; which did deliver big hard driving fruit and lots of quality. Just for fun; find back vintages of this wine at auction and stack then up against same vintage Cotes du Rhone. Do it blind and mix the event with some good meat dishes.

2009-06-26      Wynns Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 1998

Was so wound up with the 1998 Shiraz I just had to find a bottle of the big brother Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon. This is an adults only wine. Rites of passage stuff. "Grasshopper when you can snatch the stone from my hand you are ready to go into the world"!

Funny thing is that Cabernet is becoming a bit like oriental mysticism; "do you get it"? This prophetic wine showed lots of restrained minty green tomato leaf and cloves, No expensive wood to get in the way; just fabulous fruit and lashings of layered puzzle. Sadly I was not worthy and finished the bottle way to soon.

It's a band wagon I just can't keep away from; this is old fashioned cabernet that tastes like cabernet. Maybe like Kung Fu; I need to wander the earth in search of meaning; the meaning of true Cabernet. If you are not ready to cast worldly possessions aside but like the ideal of a quest, buy some old and new cabernet sauvignons from Coonawarra, Margaret River and Yarra Valley; do your own study.

2009-06-13      Jim Irvine Grande Merlot 1998 Clare Valley

Two chance encounters with this prancing stallion. Jim Irvine and family know about high powered horse flesh and this wine is all about power and speed. Friday Lunch, at the test bed, saw a bottle hit the table and my research was cut brutally short by the obscene speed of evaporation. Well; the speed a bottle empties is the ultimate test- and this one flew! Master Irvine was heard to say, the yet to be released, 2005 Grande merlot was the best ever.

Trying hard to mind my own business I found myself dining with the love of my life at the '6 happiness' in china town. The next table had a happy Hong Kong dynasty assembled over a twenty course marathon. The family big man was making a fuss of his bottle of Grande merlot; Metering thimble serves to the worthy. I had to tell the boss man to watch out for the 2005 etc etc. He was kind and understanding, somewhat unbelieving, certainly naturally suspicious. Sometime later a glass of the 1998 Grande Merlot arrived at our table with his complements. All horsepower and breathtaking finesse. A zoom past the finishing post, the race won and noting but adoration and the winners circle ahead. This wine made me smile and plot how I would capture the world supply of the 2005!

2009-06-02      E&T Pinot Chardonnay Methode Champs 2001Yarra Valley

Reminded me of Roy Orbison; Mystery girl. Someone must know this honey's story. A rare relic of fortunes come and gone; of dreams and hopes that floundered on the rocks of hardship and reality. There was a time when E&T were contenders. Like Marlon Brando on the Waterfront; they could have been someone / thing. This is a great wine. Stunning crispness and quality for an Oz champagne clone. Left half in the bottle, cork sealing in the fizz; for an hour or two until the end of the meal. Prestige Cuvee? Rocked my socks. Of lives and love, a fragile fragment of time passing and the end that spares none.

2009-05-28       Seville Estate Shiraz 1995 Yarra Valley

Seville Estate have always captured my imagination and interest. Spose wondering if Carmen or Jose Carerras would burst out of the bottle will do that. Very interesting little slip of a thing. Light clean fresh, not burdened by wood or big licks of alcohol. I like wines like this. 1995 was a BAD vintage for most of Australia. Droughts etc. Stark contrast with WA which had one of its best wine vintages ever. Can't imagine this wine is available for the asking. I would like to look at this style against what is now popular. How many punters have ever had a wine like this. Looks like I might have to get Kung Fu to do a little more wandering and righting wrongs in search of this great truth!

2009-05-15      St Hallet Blackwell 2006 Barossa Valley

This is a Hollywood story. Lounging like moguls on the terrace of a Gold Coast mansion enjoying the water views and Blackwell in glasses big enough to drown in. Des and I agreed that for the price you would struggle to find a better Barossa shiraz. Bert Werden and many other sharp commentators heaped well deserved praises on this wine. Everything was in the right place and powerful. Not a lot more to say. Buy this wine.

2009-05-11      Penley Estate range Commercial Samples

Some producers foolishly send me bottles of pre-release wines. Penley do. My grandmother, wonderful wise and simple old thing, told me that if you couldn't say something nice you should just keep quiet. Well Penley, marriage of Penfolds and Tolley, are a good story. Easy to say nice things. Funny thing is that I used to get these packs of wonderful wine and clever press releases and wonder what worthy thing I could do with them (yes I am a slow learner) I tried to phone the winery a few times to tell them how much I appreciated the thought; they never picked up; must have been too busy making good wines.

Di Cullen once told me that you could taste the love and passion in a wine. Well I reckon that Penley do the business. What they do matters to them and they try real hard.

I meet with some serious people; an AFL legend who grew a hospitality and property empire was by the office and I had just unpacked my Penley samples. Tony has a brace of liquor outlets and loves things for free. I offered him a bottle of Penley, telling him he was a better target than me. He snatched up the new release Shiraz and Merlot. 'We love this stuff, buy heaps and have no trouble pushing it' Try Penley entry level and premium wines. Taste the passion.

2009-05-04      Houghton Gladstone Cabernet 1999 Margaret River

This wine was a first for me; I knew long ago that my palate was never going to win parlor games, Even so; years of training have helped me pick Cabernet from Shiraz. Got this one wrong all night even after I was told it was cabernet I didn't believe. Varietal definition is all well and good but what about the wine? How about a swim suit model bound in layers of mink and silk? Alternate layers, very tight layers. This was high class sex in a glass. This seductress demanded and commanding you to throw caution to the wind and drink deep. Strong vintage, very ripe, stunning quality oak, super fine tannins and the most splendid slippery silken mouth feel. A little bit of cigar box and spice.

Buy it if you dare. Carful who you drink it with and where; Control is only an illusion.

2009-04-02      Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 2006

Kind folks at Moss Wood invited me to a glittering gathering of lotus eaters down by Matilda Bay to sample their latest fare. Smart folks those Mugfords; Better watch my Ps & Q's for fear of being hounded by the Legally Blond Mugford. Of course the Chardonnay the Semillon and the Pinots were all shining like beacons, but it twas the Cabernet story that captured my imagination. Heck who isn't going to agree the 2005 Moss Wood Cab is a legend waiting for its story to be written. Well the cool and long 2006 vintage saw so tears and broken hearts with many southern WA producers not finding enough ripe cab and Shiraz to release wines. Let me be but a humble step on your road to wine enlightenment. Here is a challenge. Gather some noble characters band and pledge to explore the unfolding 2005 and 2006 premium cabernets of MR and Great southern every year. Cullen and Moss Wood must be in the line. Improvise from there. Watch out for the new Moss Wood Pinot Noir influenced by eastern wisdom; it's "Other worldly"

2009-04-01      Howard Park 1999 Riesling from Magnum Great Southern

How good is this? How lucky are we? Aussie Riesling is always a bargain. Stunners like Howard Park just defy logic and any serious standards of value. This wine bounced out of its tall glass palace fresh and perky. A few signs of being cramped and breathless. Bang Bang! Soaring like eagles this one look to the thermals and commanded the skys. Beautiful to watch and share. Ever higher, ever better. The company of greatness should never be so easy or so cheap. Buy lots of Oz premium Riesling; particularly Howard Park. My experience; something too good to be true never lasts. Just a few revved up Yanks and Krauts could create export demand that would see prices soar with the eagles! Screaming Eagles? Thinking of this wine and the experience makes me want to laugh out loud. Lucky me!

2009-03-29      Krug 1996, Pol Roger Winston Churchill 1996, Lanson 1996, Nyetimber Vineyard West Sussex Blanc de Blancs 1995 & 1996, Egly Ouriet Brut Tradition Grand Cru Disgorged 2006

Every now and then the Fairy Godmother does hit you with her rhythm stick and make dreams come true. Good old Godmother Inspector Lucas was intrigued by the Pom fizz that was grabbing headlines for teaching the Frogs how to make Champagne.

Check the web site http://www.nyetimber.com pretty as a picture down Sussex way

The only way to do the job was to stack up the best of the Frogs against the pretenders and do it blind. For the Nursery Rhyme effect we did our best to get the Butcher, Baker and Candlestick makers along. Had to make do with the Butcher, Wine Maker, Wine Merchant, Doctors (one East one West) The Oyster Shucker and a fabulous Bread and Butter pudding made by a Scot for Germans.

Nice one Inspector!

Conclusions first, surprise, surprise, the mega star Champagnes were better! Notes in order of popularity

Pol Roger Winston Churchill 1996 is the current “swoon fiz” with reviewers weeping tears of joy into their frosted flutes. For those who turn from Champs as a waste of time this might be the wine to win you over. Creamy, bready exhilarating and wonderful; lime and sublime. Sex factor? This wine is Rudolh Valantino in a bottle, grand seduction; making love to every single taste bud; Ever so slowly.

I liked this wine

Krug 1996      Proof that every woman has an in built “expensamometer”. Every lady present blushed and giggled at the sight and taste of this wine. “A huge and naked tower of indulgent perfection”. Big bucks and big thrills, lingering and gentle with force. Superb palate and a joy to behold.

Lanson 1996      The form player on the day, kicking plenty of goals. Not pretty to watch; but ruthless and hard not too love for brutish charm. A racy acid backbone that could support an elephant. This had the hallmarks of a wine that deserves another, jolly good going over. A suspect that needs regular reviews.

Egly Ouriet Brut Tradition Grand Cru Disgorged 2006      This one was the Champagne trick in the blind line up. Very tricky indeed, coming from the neck of the champagne woods that grows the best of the best single vineyard MEGA, MEGA buck wines.

According to Wine legend the Egly is the up and comer favored as the daily fizz in the house holds of many a wine guru. How mysterious, very much in character, cant find a web site, Google the name for raves.

If the Lanson is George Best in a bottle; the Egly has to be Bridget Bardot. Both wines; very, very easy to love, for very different reasons. Both wines could well get you into trouble.

Nyetimber Vineyard West Sussex Blanc de Blancs 1995 & 1996

The 1995 hit the skids early on with the “pro-noses” picking up pond water and other yucky bad things on both nose and palate. Shame, thought it was a faulted bottle, close inspection of the cork saw some funny black stuff on the inside bottom (we are very thorough and scientific!) Good structure very promising but sadly that was $100 down the sink with little to show. This is a rich mans (womans) game. The stakes are too high for simple old scribe me.

The 1996, the surviving Britannia standard bearer, shot out of the blocks like Kelly Holmes and had the finish line in site when “pond water” washed her away. Bother, looks like a production problem; same villain, smaller dose. A smart wine that did present well and it did have a classy feel. Looks like another $100 flushed.

PS the Bread & Butter Pud was SUPER.(out of respect to the Scots I shouldered two serves) Fresh brioche and all things decadent including whole vanilla pods, King Island double churned cream and “bomb grade” Serendipity vanilla Ice Cream

2009-03-29      Henrys Drive Reserve Shiraz 2002 Padthaway      97pts

The man who has everything, including a taste for a bargain (not the need), my dear friend the Inspector is a great Henry’s Drive Reserve fan. Following a rigorous workout; Premier Cuvee Champagne, smoked trout and Oysters; we needed some relaxation and comfort with the delightful soft French cheeses, fresh from the international cargo hall. The Henry’s Drive 2002 was just the wine for the job. Soft sweet balanced with typical Padthaway notes of cool eucalypt. Particularly enjoyed the clean soothing aftertaste and lingering presence. The Big Parker points are a bonus when the price for this wine is below bigger names that don’t deliver the quality

2009-03-26      Noon Reserve Shiraz 2002 McLaren Vale      99 Parker Points

Tough day at the office: Ecco’s Pizza, Ron from Chapman Grove and the Inspector had to get up close and personal with Drew Noon’s sweet starlet. Parker gave this wine a near perfect score and Drew keeps on pumping out world beating Reserve Shiraz and Reserve Cabernet. Amazing stats; Reserve Cabernet last four vintages 96 97 or 98 Parker points. Reserve Shiraz even better; since 1997 vintage every wine has scored 96+ Parker points including an unbelievable five 99 pointers!!! There aint many players on the planet who are in that league. Only one Australian, Mr & Mrs Waugh and their Greenock Creek has preformed better. Sorry Drew, shame on us, the glasses were the chunky café shockers; the wine was way too hot in the glass; and the air temp was pushing over 30C. Even so, handicapped to the max; the wine was bloody magnificent! I was able to get a few drips away from the lunch table and back to the air conned office for a closer look under XL5. Everything was in place, exquisite balance, silky fresh ripe fruit and a wondrous lingering length. This is a rising star that will go all the way, sadly prices will go up as demand becomes even more of a challenge for tiny supply

2009-03-26      Chapman Grove Chardonnay 2007 Margaret River (trade sample)

It’s always a joy to sit with people who know what they are doing. Enjoyed this wine with Street theatre and the world best Pizza at Ecco in Subiaco. The “knowing” bloke is Ron Fraser, well known in Wine retail, wine production, lake building and goat herding. Chapman Grove is a visionary project in Margaret River that is through the rough and destined to be a “premier cru”. The entry level 2007 chard is a jolly good drink (we slurped ours a from the café special chunky wine glasses at a temp few degrees above best) Good fruit, pure fresh “crowd pleasing” wood and clever butter malo. Ron’s first “match” in the big league is a tough one. The new premium Chapman Grove Atticus Chardonnay is stacked up against Titans like Leeuwin Art, Pierro, Moss Wood and Vass Felix Heystburry. There is every chance that Ron will give them a very good run for the money… Stay tuned

2009-03-25      Eden Springs High Eden Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 2005 Eden Valley (trade samples)

My Cabernet hobby-horse later. Enjoyed these wines over two nights. Simple Italian pasta and salad at home and then out for exotic Vietnamese. Good to Great wines for the price of $20. Started out looking for 2006, by vintage reputation, to be the ugly also ran beside the 2005. Lets all to remember to forget the wise sagely pronouncements on vintages. The two wines were very close, almost too close to pick. Lovely ripe fruit driven rich wines with a comely coolish hint. Back to my hobby horse. Likely this blend, aimed to mask subtly leafy green characters, is the winner on the market. It is a very good wine. Sadly poor old fossils like me lament the joys lost. Where for art thou??? Most noble majestic Cabernet There was likely a SUPER wonderful real Cabernet to be made from this vineyard in 2005 and 2006. Maybe picked earlier and made lighter. Who knows maybe I could find at least one other REAL cabernet lover to enjoy it with.

2009-03-24      Massena Eleventh Hour Shiraz 2002 Barossa Valley

Enjoyed this wine, hot on the heels of a crisp celebratory Piper Heidseick Champagne. Just the thing for dinner after an Aussie citizenship ceremony with new “Aussie Cherie”. This is a project that has deeply impressed our group with great wines at sensible prices. The 2002 seems to be an evolutionary step towards greatness. Great name, the 60-120 year old vines saved from being ripped up at the last minute. Using the Parker barometer the Eleventh Hour is a winner with the last five vintages scoring mid 90’s. Felt the 2002 (may have been a faulted bottle; too much barrel char?) failed to present the riches locked away in the wine. Great concentration, beautiful integration and balance. Sadly the WOW factor, lurking under the surface didn’t show. We will organize a little vertical tasting of this wine for a “spot light” event. Might even be able to talk Dan Standish or one his crew to over the Rabbit proof fence and lend a hand.

2009-03-23      Eden Springs High Eden Shiraz 2006 Eden Valley (trade sample)

Thanks to the new and dynamic team at Eden Springs for this sample. Backed up by multi gong diva Jo Irvine in the winery they have a simple quality driven philosophy; Expect to see more of this label. Enjoyed this one with Elizabeth Taylor, Richard Burton and Rex Harrison over four hours of Cleopatra. Very appropriate, old Marc Antony must have drunk the ancient world dry during the film. This wine is a crowd pleaser, a very tricky customer that has packed in lots of lolly without bursting the bag. Aiming at a modest $20 price point, this is a wine that should work very well and the 500 cases on offer should move fast. This one, best described as a chameleon, had me a bit tricked. I liked it and so did everyone else! Good strong fruit, lovely spicy greenish cool climate hints blended in with quality oak and brought off with only 14.5% alcohol. Wanted to see how this one looked the morning after. Lots of grunt! I took the bottle out to dinner with wino snob friends who paid it the greatest complement. Drank and gone, looking for more in about 5 seconds.

2009-03-22      Hardys Eileen Hardy Shiraz 2001 McLaren Vale Padthaway

Didn’t do the grand dame justice with this one. Enjoyed this one at dinner on the street in Fremantle with members of the Gunzberg Foundation celebrating the Capo. Soft and subtle, good body and length A wine that needed to unfold and bloom slowly and gently. No Husain Bolt here. The fruit was true to varietal character, surprised that there was no strong minty signature. Lovely length and lingering flavors, smooth and southing tannins and oak treatment. Reward for the patient a possible disappointment for lovers of muscle bound sprinters.

2009-03-21      Penley Estate The Traveller Special Select Shiarz 2005 Coonawarra (trade sample)

Thanks to Kym Tolly for sending me samples of his well crafted and well placed wines. This one has a lot of potential smacking of quality, a balanced package that was loaded with goodies. Thankfully resisting the temptation to over blow any of the fine ingredients. Aiming for the $50 retail price point, this wine has a hard road to hoe with stacks of competition fighting for a shrinking consumer purse. Give it a look, certainly built for the long haul, I’d say it will look much more relaxed and expressive next year.

2009-03-20      Brands Laira Original Vineyard Shiraz 1986 Coonawarra

Enjoyed this wine over Malay Chinese at my son’s birthday. (his birthyear!) The wine was a time capsule in so many ways. Made from 100 year old vines. Naïve style label, low cost cork and cheap white glass bottle. Light and sweet fruit driven, no strong oak influence. Clean fresh and very attractive. Almost thin and uncomplicated. To me this is a wonderful snapshot of an industry preoccupied with technical and cost issues. Miracle vintage and world class fruit forced into a compromise. (NB this wine is being made today under the Stentiford label and sold for $70.00 a bottle. Today it is a stunner made to a standard not a price. Fascinating)

September 2009