Lynton's Picks – Closing 4th November

GREAT - RP97 - The 2016 Vintage Port is a field blend sourced from the typical three quintas (Panascal in the Tavora Valley and Quinta do Cruzeiro and Quinta de St Antonio in the Pinhão Valley). When last seen, this was in fine form. It was aged for 20 months in wood and comes in with 99 grams of residual sugar. Right now, surprisingly, this seems more tightly wound than the Taylor's, which usually seems to me the burlier as between the two. It has beautiful fruit as well, if not quite the wave of big fruit that Taylor's shows off. In 2017, I would say Taylor's wins. In this vintage, it may be Fonseca. However, there are great performances all around.

GREAT - RP98 - The 2017 Vintage Port, not quite bottled when originally seen, has now been in bottle for a couple of years. It is a field blend (with typical grapes like Touriga Nacional, Touriga Francesca, Tinto Cão, Tinta Roriz and Tinta Barroca) aged for approximately 20 months in used French oak. It comes in with 98 grams of residual sugar. This is a great Fonseca, distinctive, with a touch of eucalyptus and plums, but also loaded with delicious fruit. Like its Taylor's siblings, there is also a fine backbone. I'd say it is a step behind the Taylor's duo this year, but not by much. It will age well, to say the least.

EXCELENT - RP97 -  Now with a couple years in bottle, I am erring to the Taylor’s over the Fonseca (although these can always change!) The Taylor’s show more delineation and refinement with pure black currant, cassis, pencil box, hints of marzipan and a hint of dark chocolate. The palate is full-bodied and sumptuous with super-fine tannins, very pure blackberry and boysenberry notes interlaced with cedar, dried fig and a touch of black pepper on the beautifully refined finish. Excellent

RARE - A rare whisky that’s about to get a whole lot rarer. The second Glenrothes single cask to arrive in Australia ever and the last single cask Australia will ever see.

VERY RARE - Diabolical. Dark. Delicious. Tim Duckett of Heartwood has pulled a stunning 9-years-and-10-months-old single cask out of the bag from one of Tassie’s earliest – but sadly now ghosted – distilleries, exclusively for Members.Literally only a handful of casks survive to the current day (we know of five in existence, of which this is one), making Redlands’ whisky some of the rarest in Australia. And on top of that rarity, this cask is exactly the kind of malt that made Heartwood’s name. Founder Tim Duckett has been championing the Australian whisky scene since the very beginning; he bought his first cask from Sullivans Cove back in 1999 and bought the very first cask Bill and Lyn Lark ever sold. With a commitment to only release full-throated, cask-strength whiskies, Heartwood has won its spot as Australia’s best independent bottler fair and square – along with taking out Australian Whisky of the Year title five times. Described as ‘full brontosaurus Heartwood – the stuff you dream about’ at Club HQ, this is classic, heavily fortified-influenced single malt at a devilish cask strength of 66.6% ABV. Matured in a single 50-year-old American oak Oloroso cask for a full decade, it’s a sticky, indulgent beast with layers of slathered butter, fresh cherry danish, cinnamon and fruitcake, bottled with no chill filtration and no added colour. With only 230 bottles yielded, stock of Heartwood The Devil Made Me Do It is very limited

WS 96/100 - Wine-Searcher Critics Scores & Reviews - 97 Tasting.com - 95 Whisky Advocate - 96 Falstaff - 98 Wine Enthusiast 

LIMITED EDITION - Collector set contains two commemorative bottles released in 2008/2009 to celebrate: The 75th anniversary of the repeal of U.S. Prohibition (1933). [collectorofjack.com], [whiskybase.com] The 70th anniversary of the reopening of the Jack Daniel Distillery in 1938. [jackdaniels.com], [collectorofjack.com] The bottles were issued in a wooden presentation case and bottled at 45% ABV

GHOST & RARE BRORA - 1st Edition - Johnnie Walker Blue Label Ghost and Rare Brora is the first in a series of special releases created by Johnnie Walker Master Blender Jim Beveridge using irreplaceable whiskies from "ghost" Scotch whisky distilleries that have long since closed together with other rare malt and grain whiskies. A limited release of Johnnie Walker's most premium brand, built around malt from the legendary Brora.     Nose:    Wonderfully smooth with the sweetness of pineapple.     Taste:    Hazelnut and dark chocolate.     Finish:   A subtle smoky finish.

RUM - Lagavulin Offerman Edition: Caribbean Rum Cask Finish, marks our 4th grand endeavor. After having slumbered for 8 months in rum casks, the 11-year-old spirit of Islay, now intertwined with the vibrant soul of the Caribbean, emerges as a bold blend of sweet tropic notes and smoldering peaty smoke as daring as the Transatlantic voyage that birthed it.  A celebration of distant shores united, it is believed this liquid booty is best savored by the water's edge, served either neat or gently resting on the rocks.  Tasting Notes:   Nose: Smoldering embers, chili, charred citrus rind, browned butter, tarte au citron, hints of cereal, maritime and brine notes.   Body: Bonfire smoke, cracked black pepper, tingling chili, gentle citrus, vanilla, sweet salinity, brine. Palate: Dry peat smoke fills the palate with a gentle but strong sweetness, followed by sea and salt with touches of wood. Finish: Chili pepper, smoky, and fruity, lasting.

200 YEARS - LARK Single Malt Tasmanian whisky finished in rare and precious Japanese Mizunara Oak Cask. Batch 003 showcases the exquisite complexity and depth of flavours imparted by Mizunara oak. The Rare Cask Series Oak Cask Bath 003 delicately heroes the Japanese Mizunara Oak tree that must age 200 years before having harvested for barrel making. The sheer beauty and age of trees is honoured in a finely bespoke decorate bottle and minimal label, showcasing fine details of the Mizunara Oak tree foliage and tree.

ULTRA-LIMITED - The Overeem 10 Year Old Lightly Peated Sherry Cask is an ultra-limited single malt release from the Tasmanian Overeem Distillery, crafted as part of The Whisky Club's Australian Decade Series

BETTER & BETTER - RP98+ The 2021 Adrianna Vineyard Mundus Bacillus Terrae comes from 1.4 hectares within the Adrianna vineyard in Gualtallary, planted in 1992 at 1,390 meters above sea level. It's from a cooler year in Mendoza with some frost that delivered low yields and wines of good concentration and ripeness. It has 13.9% alcohol and notable acidity (7.3 grams of tartaric acid per liter of wine). Seventy-five percent of the volume started fermenting in concrete with 50% full clusters and the rest without stems or skins, only juice, in oak foudres and aged in oak barrels for 15 to 18 months. This is very straight, elegant and balanced, following the path toward elegance that started in 2019. The wine closed down in the glass and slowly unfurled layers of complexity. It's textured, with very fine-grained tannins and great balance, a very subtle note of spices and a very elegant mouthfeel. This wine has been getting better and better in the last few years, getting closer to the more austere profile of the River bottling from Adrianna vineyard (which is still a little more austere than this in the great 2021 vintage). 5,400 bottles produced. It was bottled in November 2022.

SUPURB - RP97+ -  The 2019 was a hard act to follow, but the 2020 Adrianna Vineyard River kept its poise, though it showed a little riper and with grainier tannins that gave it some faint rusticity and earthiness. This is one of three Malbecs from the Adrianna Vineyard in Gualtallary, from a stony part of the vineyard, hence its name. The wine matured in large oak foudres, and the oak is still perceptible and might need a little more time to get integrated. This tends to be the most austere of the three bottlings, even in the warmer years like 2020, and it shows a little more fruit. It's juicy but beautifully textured with a spicy twist of curry that reminded me of some bottlings from El Enemigo in El Cepillo. It seems to open up slowly in the glass—the violet and berry aromas get complicated by some spice (curry?)—and the palate feels more layered. This is a superb expression of the austere wildness of Gualtallary. 5,700 bottles were filled in December 2021.

MORE THAN 100 - RP100 - A blend of 84% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Petit Verdot and 8% Cabernet Franc aged in 40% new oak, the 2016 Proprietary Red Wine is deep purple-black in color and quite reticent at this youthful stage to begin, offering up subtle notions of potpourri, Indian spices, cigar box and iron ore over a core of crushed blackberries and black cherries with intermittent wafts of black and red currants, new leather and smoked meats. The palate is medium to full-bodied with a densely packed mid-palate and oodles of freshness framed by very ripe, finely grained tannins and laced with compelling earthy accents. It offers incredible vibrancy with tons of black and red fruit sparkle in the mid-palate leading to a provocative mineral element on the very long finish. If I could give more than 100 for this one, I would. To be released in May 2019.

MIND BLOWING - RP99+ - Very deep garnet-purple colored, the 2018 Dominus slowly emerges from the glass with profound notes of blackcurrant cordial, ripe black plums, boysenberries and Black Forest cake with hints of violets, star anise, cracked black pepper, raspberry leaves and pencil lead, plus a touch of garrigue. Medium to full-bodied, the palate delivers impactful black fruit layers, creating a beguiling sense of richness that is beautifully countered by invigorating freshness and great poise, framed by super ripe, plush tannins and beautiful tension, finishing on a lingering fragrant earth note and, finally, lots of mineral sparks. For all that it is at the moment, one cannot help but feel that this 2018 is holding something back. Give it a good five years in bottle, at least, and then get set for what I suspect will be a mind-blowing transformation over the next 30 years+.

WONDERFFUL - RP98+ -  The 2021 Dominus is a 3,700-case blend of 95% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Cabernet Franc, with 40% of the wine matured in new French oak. Black cherries and cassis lead the way, accented by scents of crushed stone and pencil shavings. It's full-bodied, rich and concentrated, dark and intense, with ample tannins, but those tannins are ripe and well-rounded without being overly soft or creamy, gliding easily into a long, mocha-tinged finish. As a whole, the wine exhibits wonderful balance, even if it will benefit from 5 or 10 years in the cellar.

WS 98/100 - Wine-Searcher Critics Scores & Reviews - ? /100 James Suckling 

HEAVENLY - RP97 - The 2023 Scharzhofberger Auslese (AP #8; the Auslese with AP #9 is the Gold Capsule that will be auctioned possibly next year) shows intense, spicy fruit that is noticeably darker than that of the Spätlese (AP #12) to be auctioned. Chewy on the palate, this is a mouth-filling Scharzhofberger. It is dense, complex and juicy yet extremely savory and expressive, marked by laser-like acidity and offering notes of bitter orange in the finish, representing the meticulous selection of botrytized grapes, although green berries were still accepted for this Auslese. The combination of concentrated, aromatic fruit and racy acidity links this Scharzhofberger Riesling to the warm phase of the vintage with the cool month of August. During the tasting in spring, the texture and acidity were still somewhat at odds with one another, which created a lot of tension but not much subtlety. This will undoubtedly change over the years in the bottle. Whether it takes 20 or 30 years for finesse and harmony to reveal themselves, only time will tell. In any case, this extract-rich Auslese with its mouthwatering mineral finish gives rise to high hopes. If you want to enjoy an early taste of a Scharzhofberg, you should not buy an Auslese but a Kabinett, because as a rule, even after only 10 years, it tastes heavenly in its mouth-filling harmony and delicacy

WS 99/100 - Wine-Searcher Critics Scores & Reviews - ?/100 James Suckling -100/100 Wine Palate - 100/100 The Wine Independent - 97-100 Robert Parker - 96/100 Cellar Tracker MUSEUM RELEASE

WS 97/100 - Wine-Searcher Critics Scores & Reviews - 92/100 Vinum Magazine - ?/100 James Suckling -100/100 Wine Palate - 95/100 Wine Spectator - 96-100 Robert Parker - 100/100 The Wine Independent - 96/100 Cellar Tracker MUSEUM RELEASE

WS 97/100 - Wine-Searcher Critics Scores & Reviews - 97/100 Gismondi on Wine - ?/100 James Suckling - - 96/100 Wine Spectator - 98/100 Falstaff - 98/100 Cellar Tracker - MUSEUM RELEASE

WS 96/100 - Wine-Searcher Critics Scores & Reviews - ?/100 Jancis Robinson - 97/100 Christer Byklum - ?/100 James Suckling - - 98/100 Wine Spirits Magazine - 98/100 Falstaff - ?/100 Decanter Magazine - MUSEUM RELEASE

EXCEPTIONAL - Lanson's golden years are only chosen to be declared in years that can truly be considered as exceptional. 1904, 1928, 1955, 1971, 1976, 1983 and 1990 were great vintages that have built the reputation of Champagne Lanson. Aged for at least five years in the cellars and with no malolactic fermentation gives the blends a fruitiness and freshness - - PRIVATE MUSEUM RELEASE 

MARATHON RUNNER - Restrained lemon gold colour and a lovely helix of tiny bubbles. Fresh citrus and red stone fruit scents. There is a beautiful acidity that has integrated into a medley of mature secondary smoky flavours alongside a benign note of noble austerity. This is a marathon runner - a great '96 with bags of life. Excellent value. - PRIVATE MUSEUM RELEASE 

EXTRA - RP97 - Roederer's 2014 Cristal Rosé has turned out beautifully, unwinding in the glass with aromas of sweet cherries, almonds, citrus fruit and red berries mingled with notions of white flowers and wet chalk. Full-bodied, fleshy and enveloping, with a layered core of fruit and a pillowy mousse, it's deep, racy and electric, concluding with a long, mineral finish. Comparatively open out of the gates, it's no slight to the 2014's seriousness to say that it will drink well while its 2013 counterpart sleeps in the cellar. Deriving from just a handful of the over 39 blocks that inform the regular Cristal 2014, I suspect that its origins have even more to do with the extra dimension it possesses above and beyond its white counterpart than the subtle infusion of Pinot Noir phenolics that give it its delicate pink hue MUSEUM RELEASE

RAVISHING - JH99 - Bottle no. 39 of 2200 tells part of the story, but the front label also has in demure typeface 'original 1867 plantings'. This is a ravishing wine with a velvet and satin mouthfeel, and a rainbow of black, purple and blue fruits. Supple tannins are somewhere in the mix, likewise French oak, but don't bother dissecting what is an exquisite wine. As a point of principle, I'm not going to give 100 points for a table wine, but if I were, this would get the nod.

MOCKERY - JH98 - A total fusion of complex fruits, of licorice, spice and pepper sidelights, of fine, yet ripe, tannins that come from very old vines, and French oak, the texture running lengthways and sideways, but never breaking line. Old vine wines like this make a mockery of vintage charts.

PERFECTLY - JH97 - Full but clear purple-crimson; as ever, an imperious wine, its power so relaxed you might walk by without stopping to gawk; blackberry, licorice and leather are sheathed in quality oak, the tannins exceptionally fine, but perfectly balanced; '11 was a very good Hunter Valley vintage.

GREAT - JH97 - The leader of the Brokenwood pack, matured in French oak. Deep crimson-purple; you can see the size of the castle, but the drawbridge is up, and the moat very deep. There is only one thing to do: buy as much as you/your partner can afford, and don't return for at least 5, preferably 10, years. This has all the attributes of a great Graveyard, its balance (the key) and length unimpeachable.

GREAT - JH98 - It hardly needs be said this is a great Graveyard, shortlisted for Wine of the Year. It is full-bodied, with intense intersections and trails of black fruits, earth, leather, spice, oak and ripe tannins running in all directions. Its magic is that it remains coherent, with its line (or focus) never compromised.

ICON - JH99 - One of Australia's icons. The decision not to use any new French oak, and to limit the alcohol to 13.5%, has resulted in a wine with a unique sense of place. It is also superbly balanced, dark fruits married to superfine tannins - another feature of a classic Hunter shiraz.

EFFORTLESS - JH99 - Graceful precision and effortless flow reflect the resplendent glory of Hunter Valley shiraz without overt winemaking ornamentation. The fruit is fragrant, dark, coiled and ripe, with restrained power and suppleness exhibiting an engaging fluidity, thrilling in its perfection. There is plenty of strength within, with finely tensioned tannins providing the requisite structure for ageing. Not only is the wine a magnificent expression of this treasured vineyard, planted in '68 and a distinguished signature wine for Brokenwood, but it is also a benchmark of the region, making it a compelling addition to any serious wine collection.

MAJESTICALLY - JH99 - A careful selection of the best parcels of shiraz from the Graveyard vineyard (predominantly Pa’s, Middle, End and 7 Acre). This is a majestically fragrant wine, with heady rose petals, pomegranate and faint Bedouin spice, anchored by a red-raspberry/cherry core. A subtle tamarind arc brings a quiet tension to the fruit. The palate is refined and exquisite, yet bright and lithe, with remarkable presence and momentum. Its brilliance lies in its precision and the sheer depth of fruit held within the medium-weight frame. So concentrated yet so fine, with a near-imperceptible tannin structure and fine acid line that will allow it to age gracefully over decades.

ICONIC - JH98 - This iconic wine delivers power, length and intensity, with a weighty, expansive palate and remarkable complexity that set it apart. The aroma is so seamless that it is difficult to dissect, but a closer look reveals alluring hints of charred citrus, lemon butter, meringue and flint. The palate is deeply satisfying and, though it has gained extra dimensions, softness and layers with age, it retains an inherent freshness and youthful beauty.

WS 97/100 - 1 scores - DECANTER World Wine Awards  

GRACEFUL - RP97 - An elegant shiraz, with grapes sourced from a single vineyard up Mt Pleasant way in the Adelaide Hills. I've always wanted to pinch that plastic pig from outside the butcher's there but have refrained (excellent mettwurst though if you're passing through). There's a raspberry top note to the wine, red plum and black cherry beneath with hints of spice, pan juices, bay leaf, cedar, dried orange rind, almond blossom and crushed stone. There's such a graceful slide of fruit across that palate, silky tannins and some lovely plum skin acidity. It's such a balanced and delicious wine now but I can see some upside that's for sure.

ICONIC - RP97+ - An important name clarification here: the wine is called Dry Grown Barossa Ranges Shiraz, but it was formerly named Three Rivers Shiraz. A total of 1,550 bottles were filled. "2015 was such a grand year, 200 magnums and 100 double magnums," Chris noted. The nose of the 2015 Dry Grown Barossa Ranges Shiraz is so wildly different to the 2014 tasted alongside. Where the 2014 is finer, more spiced and more restrained, the 2015 is layered with salami, crushed pepper, clove and tobacco leaf and is totally enveloping in every way. The alcohol comes as a surprise—it is high at 18%, however it doesn't emerge on the nose, and the fruit in the mouth is so layered and rich that it starts to not matter anyway. A unique site, and an iconic man. "The weather was benign; the grapes ripened beautifully," Chris said.

MAGNUM - RP98 - One of Australia’s most prodigious Syrahs, Clarendon Hills’ 2004 Syrah Astralis is fashioned from vines planted in 1920, and spends time in 100% new French oak from the cooper, Cadus. It boasts off the charts intensity as well as an opaque purple color, and notes of spring flowers, blueberries, blackberries, roasted coffee beans, pepper, smoke, and a hint of sweet toasty oak. This full-bodied, rich, intense, backward Syrah needs 2-3+ hours in the decanter if one is going to approach it at this point in its life. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2040+.

WS 96/100 - Wine-Searcher Critics Scores & Reviews - ?/100 James Suckling - 97/100 Robert Parker The Wine Advocate - 96/100 The Wine Front - MUSEUM RELEASE

WS 96/100 - Wine-Searcher Critics Scores & Reviews - 96/100 The Wine Front - MUSEUM RELEASE

SUPERB - JH97 - As expected the wine is young and buoyant, with a highly fragrant perfume of red fruit, fresh blackberry, violets, roasted meat and a little tar; the palate reveals the true potential of this superb wine with a cascading array of flavours and thrillingly silky tannin, poised acidity and a peacocks tail on the very long and precise palate.

WONDERFUL - JH97 - Deeply coloured; the bouquet is almost backward and is slow to reveal the intricate layers of black fruits that lie therein; time reveals succulent black fruits, minerals, fine spices and a touch of fresh garden herbs; the palate delivers a wonderful mixture of opulent fruit, savoury complexity, and silky fine tannins that persist for an incredibly long time; only at the very end do you get a glimpse of the fine oak in use; certain to be long-lived.

SPECIAL - JH98 - Don’t be confused. There are two Diana Madeline releases off the ’23 vintage, this the new addition and part of the Legacy Series. And the longer name is Full Moon Opposite Saturn Harvest because the 70% cabernet, with 30% malbec, is off the first pick when the constellations are in that order; co-fermented then aged 15 months in French barriques, 33% new. All that to say, this is both powerful and yet full of elegance. Beautiful fruit marries well with the oak, all superbly integrated. The palate is more mid-weighted, with plentiful yet fine tannins, and finishes persuasively and lingeringly. This is something else; a special wine.

MESMERISING - JH99 - An extraordinary wine from the oldest ('71) estate plantings, wild fermented and matured for 19 months in French oak (47% new). Deeply coloured and highly fragrant, the palate takes you on a mesmerising ride with a mid-palate peak of pure, unalloyed cassis fruit, then a swish of integrated savoury tannins before rising again on the dark fruit line of the finish thanks in part to 3% petit verdot. 388 dozen made.

INCREDIBLE - RP98 - I have been vocal about the 2018 vintage since the near-perfect growing season. The vintage produced wines of exceptional quality across the board in Margaret River, although it has received some criticism about being a ripe season. I refute this and suggest that the wines have brilliant balance between ripe fruit, ripe tannin and fresh acidity. They will be long lived and graceful in old age. This is also true for the 2018 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon. Extended maceration on the Abbey Vale component (21 days) has led to savory umami characters that provide a bedrock for the floral fruit and mouth perfume. This is an incredible wine from an incredible vintage. The screw-cap closure will not only ensure bottle consistency from here to Europe, America and beyond, but it will also protect the fruit freshness, which is a defining characteristic of Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon. 14% alcohol, sealed under screw cap(!).

FLAWLESS - JH97 - Part of the fruit comes from the Roche clone planted in '98, part from an earlier planting ('82), 55% matured in new French oak. A further year passed before it was released, and another 20-30 years will pass before the wine reaches its zenith. It is exceptionally long and intense, its balance flawless.

SPEECHLESS - JH98 - Deeply coloured. A superb cabernet that will be calling the shots for decades to come. Its richness is spectacular because it parallels the wine's power. Endless peaks of supple blackcurrant and cassis make light of the varietal tannins that can dog cabernet. The price rendered me speechless.

WHAT A WINE! - JH98 - As with previous years, this is super-concentrated: amazing that so much flavour can be packed into a glass. Astoundingly powerful fruit, matched by the seamless integration of oak and structure. The tannins are fine, almost subliminal, and hold the fruit in check from start to finish. The natural acidity from both the cooler growing area and vintage is impressively juicy, wrapping up a sensational package. Supple, generous, layered and lingering. What a wine.

PERFECTION - JH99 - Be prepared to kneel before the perfection of a supreme riesling, the bouquet's blossom floating in the air of a spring day, the palate a celebration of the purity, elegance, drive and length of a white wine that you absolutely know will outlive your patience. First HALLIDAY 99pt white wine 

GREAT - JH97 - Estate-grown, small parcels. The colour is deep, the palate exceptionally focused and full-bodied, yet it has the Duke's lightness of touch courtesy of contract winemaking by Rob Diletti of Castle Rock. This is a great wine with a very long future.

GORGEOUS - JH97 - The colour here is as vibrantly hued as the aromas that waft out of the glass – evident from a foot away. As with the cabernet – this is all things from the Single Vineyard but all things dialled up. Oak. Intensity and voluminous fruit. Gorgeous stuff. Spice and structure.

FINEST -  RP97 - The 2022 Palladian Cabernet Sauvignon is silky, fine and ferrous, with bay leaf, tapenade, raspberry and pomegranate. This is one of Australia's finest Cabernets, year in year out, showing sophistication, finesse and delicacy alongside transparency of place. This is highly recommended. 14% alcohol, sealed under screw cap.

EXCEPTIONAL - JH97 - Includes 7% petit verdot, 5% cabernet franc and 4% malbec. Tasted at the end of a group of cabernets, it provided the essence of cabernet missing from the other wines. After 18 months in new and used French oak, it presents all the tension between cassis/blackcurrant on the one hand, and finely etched cabernet tannins on the other. The balance and mouthfeel are exceptional.

LUCIOUS - JH97 - Hand-picked fruit, whole-bunch crushed, basket pressed, fermented in French oak (30% new), mlf, matured 20 months in an underground cave. The secret – if there is one – to Giaconda chardonnay is the depth of complexity achieved. It is a thing of wonder to get lost in, as you wander through layer upon layer of stone fruits, citrus and grilled nuts, almond cream, spice and then gently embedded oak. Luscious. Intriguing. Stylish.

MASTERS - JH99 - An utterly beguiling wine of deep complexity and stunning freshness. Vintage '22 brought on one of the latest harvests ever for the maker, and the cool season and long hang time has worked a special kind of magic. The scent demands your attention, with jasmine, citrus blossom, grapefruit flesh, nectarine, peach custard, cashew and buttered toast. Seamless entry, the wine glides across a richly detailed palate, textural and luxurious in flavour, with a pinch of bright quince-led spice to close. Filigree fine acidity brings a crystal clarity and freshness. A chardonnay masterclass from the masters.

EXQUISITE - JH98 - In challenging Victorian vintages like '23 – cool and wet – the cream rises, quality producers standing up. At Giaconda, we see another stunner of a chardonnay released, a classic work of art that delivers a bouquet of citrus blossom scents with intense Meyer lemon, grapefruit pith, preserved lemon, white peach, nectarine and crushed stone. Has real presence and an immediate sense of concentration. The longer it remains open, the more it reveals, an ongoing treat of complexity in nectarine, peach, toasted almond and gentle spice with a stunning lemon butter-like richness and more, edged in finely laced acidity. Exquisite.

SEDUCTIVE - JH97 - From Lou Primavera's '01-planted vineyard at 300m on red volcanic soils in Woori Yallock. 35% whole bunches. A bright crimson red. This always highly seductive and perfumed wine has aromas of raspberries, orange peel and cranberries as well as a little musk stick and rose bush. There's a gentle succulence on the palate that's nicely balanced by the wine's supple tannins and fine-boned acidity. Long, lovely, now and over the next six to eight years.

SALIVATING - JH97 - A blend of Gingin and Bernard clones planted in '97 between 100 and 200m in Gruyere. 20% new oak and 10% mlf. Another salivating and seductive Sexton Chardonnay with its bouquet of stone fruits, preserved lemons, freshly ground coffee beans and roasted hazelnut. The beautifully balanced and tightly coiled palate is underpinned by its concentration and intensity. Finishes saline and extremely long. It's all here and needs another five to seven years, at least, to reach its zenith.

BEGS - JH97 - The warmest site among Giant Steps' four single-vineyard chardonnays, though planted on a cool, south-facing slope in Tarrawarra. Whole-bunch pressed and barrel fermented in French puncheons (25% new) with 10% mlf. An engaging and lovely wine. Opens with subtle scents of pink grapefruit, orange blossom and coriander seeds. Builds nicely on the gently textured, saline and structured palate before finishing zesty and long. The sort of wine that begs you to take another sip

BEAUTIFULLY - JH97 - Planted on a cool, south-facing slope in Tarrawarra. Whole-bunch pressed and barrel fermented in seasoned French puncheons and one ceramic egg. A vibrant green gold. Immediately appealing with its aromas of stone fruits, yellow apple, some lemon confiture and a touch of brine. Chalky textured, slippery and with a certain openness but finely detailed and structured too. Grapefruit pithy on the long, beautifully balanced finish.

GREAT - RP97 - I love what Glaetzer's inclusion of Cabernet brings to the 2017 Anaperenna Shiraz-Cabernet Sauvignon, giving it additional fragrance and length. Lifted aromas of mint, raspberries and dark chocolate mark the nose, while the full-bodied palate is rich and velvety but never heavy, framed by supple tannins that turn silky on the long, long finish. Showing great focus, energy and intensity, expect it to still be going strong in a decade.

GALAXY - RP98 - The 2018 The Eye of Ra Shiraz is wildly aromatic: blood plum, pastrami, cracked peppercorns, clove bud, mountain herbs (alpine mint?), boysenberry, blackberry (actually, every black berry you can name), dark chocolate, squid ink, blueberry, resin and char. In the mouth, the wine is velvety and concentrated, with a surprising amount of detail embedded and embossed into the folds of tannin that shape the wine. This is very big, make no mistake, but also balanced between its sweet and savory sides. A galaxy of complexity exists in this glass. It shows the 2018 vintage off to its best effect: ripe, dense, concentrated, fresh and beguiling. Super good. The drinking window is conservative, however, as I prefer a modicum of primary fruit. It's important to note that it will age gracefully beyond that point, so it is up to you...

NO HOLDS BARRED - JH97 - Some of the vines were planted by Cyril Henschke in the '60s. Matured in French hogsheads (35% new) for 18 months. Deep but brightly coloured, this is a no holds barred, full-bodied Eden Valley cabernet sauvignon that will live for decades, blessed by a screwcap. Blackcurrant fruit, touches of cedary oak, black olive, bay leaf and earthy tannins are all on parade.

MUSEUM - RP98 - Deep brick-colored, the 1994 Hill of Grace offers notes of stewed plums, dried berries and baking spices with nuances of aniseed, vanilla and potpourri. Medium to full-bodied, it has great concentration and structure in the mouth, with crisp acid plus firm, grainy tannins, and is packed with layered, dried berry and spice flavors before finishing long with tons of remaining fruit. This wine still has many years to go. Drink it now to 2030+. MUSEUM RELEASE 

ORIGINAL RELEASE CONDITION - Near Perfect Presentation

MAGNUM - RP98 - Deep garnet in color, the 2002 Hill of Grace has an entrancing nose with profound aromas of warm black cherries, crushed blackberries and mulberries plus a touch of wild blueberries and hints of allspice, violets and toast. It is full-bodied, rich and seductive in the mouth, and yet it has lovely poise with a crisp acid line and a medium to firm level of fine-grained tannins plus great length. Delicious now, it will reward the patient and should drink to 2040+. MUSEUM RELEASE 

MUSEUM - RP99 - Medium to deep garnet colored, the 2012 Hill of Grace Shiraz is a little reticent on the nose to begin, opening out to a somewhat paradoxically tantalizing Black Forest cake, beef dripping, fertile loam and tree bark nose with hints of black pepper, Marmite, bay leaves, eucalyptus, licorice and baker’s chocolate. The medium to full-bodied palate is a wonderfully intricate mélange of mineral, savory, dark fruits and spice layers, framed by velvety tannins and refreshing acidity, finishing epically. This is a truly great Hill of Grace that has just entered the first stage of its drinking window and should continue to develop beautifully over the next 25+ years. MUSEUM RELEASE

CLASSIC - JH99 - This release will go down in the annals of Australian fine wine as one of the classic releases for Hill of Grace. With a strong vintage and even stronger pedigree, the gnarled old, circa 1860s-planted, shiraz vines have really come up with the goods with this release and as I sit to taste this wine with Stephen Henschke he shakes his head and says, "it just amazes me that my grandmother's grandfather planted these vines". The eagle-eyed will notice a skip in vintage. The yields were down horribly in 2020 across all the Henschke vineyards but man, did 2021 deliver. Super bright magenta/crimson in the glass with a wonderfully deep aromatic profile. Doris plum, blackberry and black cherry with hints of mace, sage, panforte, cedar, dark chocolate, tapenade, pepper, charcuterie, graphite, crushed quartz and violets. From the aromatic detail to the amplitude, purity and flow of fruit, the wine is absolutely on song with stunning length of flavour and presence on the palate, sailing away slowly with tight, fine-grained tannins and the most graceful of travels on the palate. An absolute classic for this wine.

LOVE - RP99 - The 2022 Hill of Grace Shiraz leads with dark fruit and an abundance of exotic spice to match. The tannins are profuse here, quite distinct from the Hill of Roses tasted alongside. Star anise, cloves, cinnamon (cassia), fennel seeds and Sichuan pepper weave in and out of the blackberry, blueberry, crushed quartz/ferrous undertones. There's a sweet rolling-tobacco character that is highly attractive and lingers through the finish. I love the 2022 vintage. It is fresh and detailed. It may forever live in the shadow of the great 2021 vintage, but not for me—I believe firmly this is a sleeper vintage and will reveal its longevity given time. The allure of it now is not in question, either.

MUSEUM - JH97 - This was the first wine sold in bottle ('52) by Henschke, although it has had to play second fiddle to Hill of Grace since '58 when the latter came on stream. New oak is only 22%, and the majority of the oak is French. The vintage was excellent, the flavours deep, with soft blackberry and plum fruits wending their way across the palate, cushioned by cedary oak and carefully polished tannins. It's utterly classic drinking, with unalloyed pleasure now but no less in another 20 years. MUSEUM RELEASE

GREATS - JH98 - I used to live next door to this 109-year-old vineyard for nearly a decade and have seen the hard work and attention to detail that goes into its farming. The 2021 is an absolute stunner from a great vintage and I've no doubt that this will age gracefully for decades. The length of flavour with this release is quite something; the fruit is sleek, plush and on-point pure. Blackberry, Doris plum and black cherry layer with spice and hints of sage, bay leaf, pepper, olive tapenade, anise, violets and stone. Velvety and graceful in its flow on the palate with a fresh mineral cadence and superfine, powdered granitic tannins for support. It'll go down as one of the greats.

LOVE - RP98 - The 2022 Mount Edelstone Vineyard Shiraz is bright, supple, spicy, savory and sweet. It is complex and shapely, persistent and delicate, with notes of bay leaf, raspberry seed, tapenade, wet moss and brine. This is a beautiful wine, and one of the most lovely Mount Edelstone Vineyard Shirazes I have tasted on release. I love the wines from the 2022 vintage; it may forever live in the shadow of the great 2021 vintage that came before it, but not in my heart. It has a pH of 3.43, 5.8 grams per liter of total acidity and 14.5% alcohol. According to Henschke: "The winter of 2021 brought good rainfall, refilling soil profiles, and the cool, slow start to the growing season resulted in budburst occurring two weeks later than average. An extreme hail event on October 28 decimated the young-shoot growth across our vineyards in Keyneton, significantly reducing crop potential. Late flowering (late November to early December) avoided the cold and windy conditions, resulting in good fruit set, albeit with smaller yields. A burst of summer heat, without extremes, supported berry development and balanced canopy growth. Welcome rain in late January occurred just before veraison and ripening, leading into a mild and dry finish to summer. The 2022 vintage was late, with harvest dates one to two weeks later than the historical average. The resulting wines have great elegance with excellent aromatic and flavor intensity, bright acidity and wonderful aging potential.

SUPERBLY - JH97 - Take the best parcels of cabernet sauvignon from Trueman, same for Brookes Road shiraz, a 56/44% blend respectively, and another selection at the final assemblage to ensure it's the best of the best. Yep that works. It's morphed into a harmonious entity. Complex, detailed on every level with powdery tannins, cassis, dark plums, cured meats and spice, very refreshing, full-bodied, deep and superbly balanced - MUSEUM RELEASE

ICONIC - JH97 - Sourced from the contoured quilt of estate vines, a confluence of silts, loams and ferrous outcrops. A traditional blend of the finest performing blocks and best barrels (50% new). A nose tingling with a visceral energy, such is the mineral-clad spine to this wine. Rich and powerful, to be sure, as the sweetness of shiraz and its blue-fruit aspersions meander across cabernet's bones of finely tuned tannins, dried herb and cedar-oak cladding. Yet the overall effect is one of umami warmth, savoury depth and immense potential. This is an iconic wine and deservedly so.

FAULTLESS - JH97 - Very stable, deep colour; a fine vintage of a very distinguished wine with a great pedigree; faultless blackcurrant cabernet fruit, fine-grained tannins and high-quality oak; very good length.

BEAUTIFUL - JH98 - From the single Justin Vineyard in the Frankland River; this speaks of its place of origin even more eloquently than the Gladstones Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon. The cabernet is effortlessly focused and powerful, the balance, texture, structure, line and length of this beautiful wine certain to carry it long after I have had my ashes scattered.

NO COMPROMISE - JH97 - The most powerful and concentrated of all the deluxe/icon wines in the Houghton range, a distillation of blackcurrant, black olive, bay leaf and cedary oak, the tannins lined up in a haughty (sorry for the pun) support. No compromise here - the wine would have pleased Jack Mann enormously.

GREAT - RP97+ - The 2022 Spring Farm Block 74 Cabernet leads with a bouquet that can only be described as spicy, sophisticated and supple. The wine is from the Spring Farm vineyard, and this block 74 is at 485 meters in elevation, planted to a westerly aspect that catches the afternoon sun. For all the intensity of the aromas, the palate is finer and more detailed than expected—it moves toward "delicate" with unnerving grace, and like a fleet-footed assassin, it sails across the palate with almost weightless impact. This is leafy and fine in the vein of great Clare Valley Cabernet, and it has the added benefit of seamless oak framing. It's a great wine. 13.9% alcohol, sealed under screw cap.