FRANKLAND ESTATE Smith Cullam Riesling 2023

Robert Parker Score: 92 points

Reviewer: Erin Larkin — November 2024 Week 214 Nov 2024

Drink 2024–2038

The 2023 Smith Cullam Riesling leads with wet paperbark tree, juniper berries, green apple skins, white currant and brine, with a hint of reed, straw and even lemongrass on the nose. Citrus peel and white flowers populate the palate; it doesn't have the plump, pillowy sort of texture that I have found in some other vintages. This has a tension and tanginess to the acidity that makes it a little more racy than earlier iterations. It's leaving a pop-rock candy sensation on my tongue after it's gone. This is exciting, make no mistake, and has great length of flavor, yet it is quite a distinct and perhaps a touch dilute (?) wine this year. 12% alcohol, sealed under screw cap.

It is important to note that I have tasted this wine twice now, as I wanted to ensure that I had gotten the correct reading on it the first time. It remains a marvelous Riesling from this great producer, yet it is quite different from years gone by. While the 2023 season was an excellent one, especially for whites in Western Australia, I found I preferred the Alter Weg from this same vintage. They are totally different styles, but the other is a better example of that oak-matured style than this Smith Cullam is of this off-dry style. That may be an unpopular opinion, but it's one I feel strongly; and despite that, I still believe Frankland Estate is one of the very best Riesling producers in the country.